California Mission Tour Trip 2 - North of San Luis Obispo (11
Missions)
Prologue - October 20, 2011 - I hadn't been able to get out for another ride
to some missions since the July ride. Michael & I had various scheduling
conflicts and finally Michael had to drop his plans to complete the tour. Since
it looked like great weather in the bay area for the weekend, 80's and sunny, I
quickly made plans to start out at Sonoma and head south getting to as many of
the 11 missions north of the 5 I had already done. Luckily, I was able to get
into contact with my cousin in San Jose so I had a nice place to bunk down for
the night.
Day 1 Oct 22, 2011 - 637 miles - 6 Missions
I decided to get a very early start and get to Sonoma around 10 am. I got a
slightly later than intended start and was on the road at 4:25 for the
long
ride upon the superslab. Since it was in the 50's when I left, I had several
layers of clothing on. It is almost 400 miles from my house to Sonoma. I made
quick stops for gas in Buttonwillow and Santa Nella. I also made a quick stop in
Danville to top off the tank, remove the balaclava, windbreaker, and glove
liners, and get $5 for the bridge into the center compartment so I could
have it ready to hand over at the toll booth. The last few miles to Sonoma were
off of the freeways, a welcome change.
I arrived at Mission San Francisco de Solano in Sonoma at 10:15, just under 6
hours. It is the 21st mission in California, founded in 1823 to keep the
Russians from advancing southward. Restoration was completed in 1913. It is part
of a state park, but on a public street so it is easily photographed with the
motorcycle. I took several shots, talked to a nice couple about the tour, and
then headed on to the next mission.
It is just under 30 miles to the next mission southward, Mission San Rafael
Arcángel, in San Rafael. I arrived at 11:00. I was able to park off to the side
of the chapel.
The
street front was blocked by a couple of limos. It looked like a quinceañera was
going to be held soon. The mission was founded in 1817 as a sub-mission of the
Mission San Francisco de Asís as a hospital to treat the sick. The weather was
much better here than in San Francisco. It was never intended to be a
stand-alone mission, but nevertheless grew and was granted full mission status
on October 19, 1822, making it the 20th mission. In the photo, you can just see
my Concours parked to the left of the chapel. The mission was completely gone
except for part of the former orchard when the replica chapel was built in
1949. The weather was warming up, so I removed my long sleeve shirt.
Next it was back onto US-101 for the trip southward over the Golden Gate
Bridge and
into San Francisco. I put $6 for the bridge toll into the console for easy
access and was on my way. The city was clear and sunny making for a beautiful
view as I crossed the bridge. Usually the city seems to be shrouded in fog. I
followed US-101 onto Lombard street and then turned south on Divisadero. It is
quite a challenge to ride in the city where the founders laid streets in a grid
and ignored the terrain. Up one steep hill with several 4 way stops along the
way, and then down the other side, only to go up another hill. I made my south
and then a jog east to get to the next mission. I arrived just before noon,
traveling a total distance of 18 miles.
Mission
San Francisco de Asís, or Mission Dolores, is the oldest surviving structure in
San Francisco and the sixth mission founded in Alta California. The Mission was
founded on June 29, 1776. The mission had gone through several changes,
including clapboard siding like San Luis Obispo, and was finally restored to a
more original appearance. The large church next door was completed in 1918 to
replace a brick church that was destroyed by the 1906 earthquake. The mission
itself survived the earthquake and subsequent fire. I was able to briefly park
right in front of the mission and took my photo while standing in the middle of
the street. It was starting to get over 80 in the city. I still had my cold
weather gear
on my legs and feet. I decided to keep them on until Santa Cruz since it might
be a bit cooler there.
I continued south on Dolores Street and picked up I-280 for the run south. I
eventually was on CA-17 headed over the hill to Santa Cruz. Traffic was thick
with beachgoers hoping to enjoy one last great day before winter comes. CA-17 is
a wild ride when there is little traffic. But with stop and go traffic it is an
adventure, with a good amount of lane splitting through blind mountain curves.
I
arrived at Mission Santa Cruz at 1:25, about 75 minutes and 75 miles from
Mission Dolores. Mission Santa Cruz was the twelfth mission, and was founded in
1791. In 1857 the buildings were destroyed by earthquakes and not much remained.
In 1889 a large church was built on the original site. In 1931 a half-sized
replica was built near the large church. The only surviving building is a
dormitory for the Indians, which is now part of a state historic park. I was
able to pull up in front of the replica and take my photos. It was getting warm
in Santa Cruz so I found some restrooms at the large church and any cold weather
gear that I still had on. I was on a roll, 4 missions visited so far. I decided
to keep to the coast and travel down CA-1 to the mission in Carmel.
I
arrived
at Mission San Carlos Borroméo del río Carmelo at 2:45 after traveling 46 miles from Santa Cruz,
and a quick gas stop in Watsonville. A wedding was in progress so I could not
park in the parking lot. After circling around for a bit, I stopped just to the
north of the mission and again had to walk into the street to take the pictures.
The mission is the second mission founded in California, established on June 3,
1770, and served as headquarters for the California missions. It was originally
founded in nearby Monterey, but quickly moved to Carmel to put some distance
between the Indians and the Presidio of Monterey. After secularization in 1834
the mission quickly fell into ruins, but after the Catholic church regained
control restoration began in 1884. Father Serra is buried beneath the chapel
floor. With the coastal missions done, it was time to tackle the remaining
inland missions.
Back
up CA-1 to Santa Cruz and then CA-17 and I-880 to Santa Clara where the last
mission of the day would be. So 75 miles after leaving Carmel, I was stopping in
front of Mission Santa Clara de Asís which is on the campus of the Santa Clara
University, the first college established in Alta California. It was now 4:15,
and the end of a busy day was in sight. The Santa Clara Mission had a troubled
life, having been destroyed and rebuilt 6 times. It originally was in a 2
different lower locations, but periodic flooding forced the move to the present
location in 1828. It is the eight mission founded in Alta California.
One of my cousins, who went to Santa Clara University and was married in the
mission, lives nearby with her husband and 2 wonderful kids. I arrived at 4:45,
and stayed the night. 6 missions done and only 5 more left for Sunday!
Day 2 Oct 23, 2011 - 432 miles - 5 Missions
I
relaxed in the morning and enjoyed my time with my cousin and her family. I got
underway at 9:45 and headed for Mission San José, which is not in San Jose, but
in Fremont, a distance of 21 miles from my cousin's home in San Jose. I arrived
at 10:10. It was a nice quiet Sunday morning at the mission. The mission was
founded in 1797 as the fourteenth mission in Alta California. In 1848 the
mission was used as a general store selling supplies to the hopeful miners. A
large earthquake in 1868 severely damaged the mission and a gothic style church
was built in its place. Construction began in 1982 to build a replica of the
1809 church.
As
I was traveling to Mission San José, I had realized that I had forgot my
camelbak in San Jose. So after getting my pictures, I made a slight detour back
to my cousin's house, arriving at 10:40, and then immediately left for Mission
San Juan Bautista. I soon was on US-101 which would take me to all of the
remaining missions for the day.
91 miles after leaving the first mission of the day, I arrived at Mission San
Juan Bautista at 11:30. This mission was founded in 1797 and was the fifteen
mission. in the early 1800's the mission had a large Indian population and was
quite a successful ranch. Various restorations were done in 1884 and 1949. The
Hitchcock movie Vertigo was partly filmed there. The mission is right on top of
the San Andreas fault so it has been damaged many times, but never completely
destroyed. I talked for a bit to a couple who were interested in a Concours.
Next
it was a trip to Mission Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. I arrived at 12:25 after
traveling 49 miles. It is the 13th mission and was founded in 1791. It was quiet
there, one car was leaving as I pulled into the parking lot, leaving me as the
only person in sight. The mission sat vacant after secularization in 1835, and
when restoration was begun in 1954 not much was left other than a few crumbling
walls.
After
Mission Soledad, I continued my journey south on US-101 and then onto Jolon
Road. Jolon Road does a westward loop off of US-101 through the edge of Fort
Hunter Liggett, an U.S. Army training base. To get to the next mission, you must
actually enter the base. Occasionally the road may be closed if training using
live fire is taking place there. At 1:15, I made it to Mission San Antonio de
Padua, after traveling 43.5 miles from Soledad. The surrounding land was once
part of the large Hearst estate before being sold to the U.S. Army. The mission
was the third mission established in California, founded in 1771, although the
church was not built until 1810. It sat empty after secularization because of
its remoteness. A first attempt at rebuilding was began in 1903, but the 1906
earthquake damaged it again. It has been undergoing slow restoration since then.
Back
west through the base to Jolon Road then south to reconnect with US-101 to the
final mission for the day, Mission San Miguel Arcángel, the 16th mission
established in Alta California. It was founded in 1797. I arrived at 2:05 after
traveling 40 miles from Mission San Antonio. San Miguel's church building,
unlike so many of the missions, has been in use since it was completed in 1818.
It wasn't always a church. After secularization and until the lands were given
back to the Catholic Church, the building was used as a saloon, dance hall,
storeroom and living quarters. The church was closed for 6 years after 2003 San
Simeon earthquake.
A
quick stop for lunch and gas 7 miles south on US-101 in Paso Robles celebrated
the completion of 11 missions for the weekend. I've been to many of them before
so the quick stop and move on wasn't an issue, but I would like to return to a
few of them again.
After a delicious burger at Good Ol' Burger in Paso Robles, it was west on
CA-46, south on CA-33 to Taft (I avoided traffic due to construction on I-5),
and then through the fields to I-5 and south to home. I arrived at 6:00, 195
miles since Paso Robles.
Now I need to take a day trip and pick up the remaining 5 missions (San Diego
- San Fernando) to complete a visit to all 21.